Bytes to Digest

Rome Colosseum: Underground, Arena & Forum VIP Access

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Whether you’re on a quest to see the New 7 Wonders of the World, adventuring off your bucket list, or you’re taking a grand European tour, a VIP visit to Rome’s Colosseum and Forum sites should not be missed.  In particular, there’s a special experience that I highly recommend – visiting the Colosseum’s underground dungeon area, taking a stroll on arena floor (the “stage”), and seeing Rome from the Colosseum’s third tier. All of these special areas are kept under lock and key – but are accessible via special access…

I had the opportunity to meet up with Vincenzo, one of the fabulous Walks of Italy guides – and tagged alongside the VIP Access Colosseum and Forum Tour*. Walks of Italy’s small group VIP tour grants special access to otherwise off limit areas within the Colosseum and Forum areas, and I was lucky enough to be able to catch up with Vincenzo’s group.

Vincenzo is a true raconteur – a spirited storyteller who creates a lively and interactive environment. Vincenzo is simply charming, his knowledge and personality carry us through the day.

Escorted behind gated areas, I noticed we caught more than a few curious glimpses from the other tourists. I could literally feel their curiosity pique.  Where were we going? What kinds of treasured experiences were we going to encounter (that they would not)? How did we arrange for all of this, and, seriously, what’s behind all of that security?

In addition to the many hovering “Curious Georges”, I also noticed more than a handful of people try to sneak into the restricted access areas or voluntarily tag themselves along our tour (to be honest, I don’t blame them one bit. It would be heartbreaking to come all the way to Rome and then find out that a little advance planning could have made for an entirely different experience.  Luckily, Vincenzo and the Colosseum staff watch the group like a hawk, so the sneak-aboards aren’t too successful).

To give you a taste of the special access (but not to give the tour secrets away), here are some of the photos of the Colosseum underground tunnels and dungeon area.

The underground dungeon area provides a glimpse into the brilliance of its architectural design. As we walked through the underground dungeon, I wondered if this type of layout inspired today’s modern Cirque du Soleil shows (killing differences aside) — with tunnels, trap doors, and spaces for storing show props and house animals.

On the main level, we were able to experience the true “gladiator” experience.  The main platform is also a restricted access area.  Walking out onto the main deck alone provides a small glimpse into what it would have been like to be the gladiator with all of the Colesseum attendees watching your every move. It’s probably the closest that I’ll ever feel like a gladiator.

The tour continues into other special areas of the Colesseum and then winds its way through the vast Forum area.

Many thanks to Walks of Italy for providing an unforgettable experience – and to Vincenzo for being such an inspiring and entertaining raconteur!

In Italy, the customary way to wish someone “Happy Holidays” is “Buone Feste!” or “Tanti auguri!” and to say “Happy New Year!” is “Buon Capodanno!”

To celebrate the New Year, Walks of Italy has a special deal going on until March 1, 2013! Low Sodium Blog readers who book any Walks of Italy services can receive a 15% off discount off all Walks of Italy services through 2013 (the Walks of Italy services have to be booked/paid before March 1, 2013).

To take advantage of the discount, simply book online and enter discount code WALKSLOVESBLOGGERS into the appropriate field.

Enjoy Italy and “Buon Capodanno!”

*Disclaimer: Walks of Italy sponsored my VIP Access – Colosseum Underground, Arena & Forum Rome Tour; the opinions expressed/photos used in the above post are my own.

The Pristine Sistine Chapel with Walks of Italy

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Everyone, meet Jason Spiehler (left) and Stephen Oddo (right) – the co-founders of Walks of Italy, a sustainable travel company that provides high quality personal experiences and small group tours. We initially crossed travel paths with Jason and Stephen back in June, 2012 – Walks of Italy was a sponsor at TBEX (Travel Blog Exchange Conference).

Together with about 700 other travel bloggers – we descended upon Keystone, Colorado. After discovering that I would be traveling to Italy solo for a week (as part of my around-the-world adventure), Jason and Stephen kindly extended an invitation to walk with their Rome-based small group tour crew, to experience Italy as [in-the-know] Romans do.  Wow. What an amazing opportunity! Today’s post focuses on Vatican City*(coincidentally, a UNESCO World Heritage site).

This was my second time visiting Vatican City and it literally was a night and day experience – partly attributed to Walks of Italy’s Pristine Sistine tour itself, and partly due to the fact that I was able to compare my experience of pre-restoration (1993) to post restoration frescos. Time can be favorable under the right set of circumstances.

Walks of Italy calls their early morning tour the Pristine Sistine with good reason: it’s a special experience that grants small group access (up to 12 people per group) to the Sistine chapel – well before the general public are allowed to enter (i.e., the Vatican receives over 20,000 visitors daily).  The Pristine Sistine tour provides patrons a rare opportunity to walk freely inside of the chapel (and not feel like a sardine); the other significant benefit is that this is one of the few times that the Vatican allows guests to talk (quietly but) freely with their knowledgeable [Vatican approved] Walks of Italy guide inside the Chapel itself. The real-time explanation and interpretation of the frescos, along with having a remarkable amount of personal space makes a world of difference.  To me, this is the preferred way to visit the Sistine Chapel.

Inside the Sistine Chapel, I was in awe. The fresco restorations were simply incredible – literally, it is like comparing a black-and-white photo to a vividly colored one. Since we weren’t allowed to take any photos within the chapel itself, you can see the pre-and post-restoration work here (via Wikipedia).

If you visit later in the day, via regular public access, the Sistine Chapel experience is an entirely different animal. Packed to the brim, people stand nearly shoulder-to-shoulder; the temperature inside the chapel is much warmer (due to the sheer volume of people); the Vatican museum stewards constantly bark at the visitors in an effort to keep the chapel under control (there’s a no talking/photography policy within the chapel itself. I later walked through the Sistine Chapel and had to squeeze through sardine pit; it was a stark contrast to the “Pristine Sistine”).

Rich in art, history, and culture – it’s easy to spend days inside the walls of the Vatican.  The Pristine Sistine tour led us through the Vatican museums, Raphael rooms, and some other special gems (we can’t give all the secrets away).  Our tour wrapped up inside of St. Peter’s Basilica, the largest church in the world.

Inside, we saw Michelangelo’s Pieta (behind bulletproof glass – another sad “sign of the times”).

Tips on Visiting the Vatican:

  • Be sure to dress appropriately – dress code is strictly enforced for both men and women. (i.e.,  no shorts, bare shoulders, miniskirts/other revealing (or offensively marked) clothing).
  • Stay close to your guide, especially while inside St. Peter’s Basilica. It’s easy to lose your group while being in awe of the art and architecture (I temporarily lost my group, quite by accident, and nearly didn’t find them again).
  • Climbing to the top of the cupola at St. Peter’s Basilica is something everyone should do at least once (320 steps) in your lifetime.  The view from the top is simply stunning. There’s an elevator that provides rooftop access (but not the top of the cupola).  The Vatican charges additional access fees (note: this is not included in the Pristine Sistine Tour, but I highly recommend doing this – the view from the top is well worth the additional effort).
  • Warning: the Sistine Chapel is not immune to pickpockets , especially during peak visiting hours.  Having squeezed through the sardine pit myself, I could see how this is likely.

Special thanks to all of the folks at Walks of Italy for really amazing tour and Vatican experience!  The Pristine Sistine is one of those experiences that I’ll always remember!

*Disclaimer: Walks of Italy sponsored my Pristine Sistine Tour; the opinions expressed/photos used in the above post are my own.

Serving Up Inspiration: Friends, Poetry, Food, and Art. Meet Annelies @thefoodpoet.com

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TheFoodPoet.com – Annelies brings joy into our lives (pictured: Annelies, Jean, and I)

My friend Annelies is one of the most beautiful people I know, both inside and out. She sees beauty in (even the most obscure things) life.  Even more special, Annelies always makes me smile and my soul feel warm.  She is a true friend. Her writing, photos, and perspectives have a way of adding little extra happiness into my day (plus, I can read her blog no matter where I’m traveling).

Today we are celebrating Annelies’ newly re-branded blog, The Food Poet.com (formerly La Vie en Route).  Annelies and TheFoodPoet.com put out a challenge: [to foodies] share an inspirational poet or enticing poem; [to her poet/writer/creative types] share a recipe or chef that makes you want to get in the kitchen and cook.

Who would ever turn down inspiration?  Not me.  So, I’m excited to introduce Annelies — my inspirational poet friend, and two of her posts (recipes in different ways) that I absolutely love.

Follow Annelies’ party @thefoodpoet or #foodpoetryparty on Twitter.

1.  Favorite [what I ate this summer] food inspirations - Earlier this year, while cooking and reviewing her way through Seamus Mullen’s Hero Foods book, Annelies deliciously remade Seamus’ Chilled Carrot Soup with Tarragon and Yogurt recipe (pg 186, she also cooked other dishes from the book. Coincidentally, this specific recipe can be converted into a low sodium version).

Annelies cooking Mullen’s easy Chilled Carrot Soup with Tarragon and Yogurt

Enamored with Seamus’ book, she encouraged me to “go buy a copy now!” to serve as my pre-Spain trip inspiration — which ended up being a spectacular idea! This past summer,  not only did I drool over the cookbook photos while sitting on the plane ride over the pond, I used the book as a pocket reference guide while traveling – a “what to eat while in Spain” kind-of-thing.  Double the pleasure, double the fun!

2.  Favorite Food and Art PerspectivesAnnelies’ perspective on Do the Work: the Art and Soul of Craft.

From Annelies’ blog, TheFoodPoet.com – Do the Work: the Art and Soul of Craft

Also earlier this year, Annelies and I both signed up for Andrew Scrivani’s photography workshop hosted at Contigo Restaurant in San Francisco (you can read about it here ). While we ended up attending Andrew’s session on different days (a little like two ships passing in the night where the workshop was concerned), I simply loved Annelies’ perspective and her blog post that came out of the class, titled “Do the Work: the Art and Soul of Craft.” No matter how you cut it, the class ended up being a triple inspiration weekend – great perspectives, great art, and great food (though, not exactly low sodium)

Now that you’ve just drooled all over her photos – scoop your chin off the floor and catch up with the poetry party! I really hope you enjoy reading her blog.  I know I do.

____

P.S.  Today is my first official day being at home in LA, having just wrapped up a Travel-Around-the-World summer tour.  Jet lagged and exhausted.  Once I catch up on sleep and burn my travel clothes, there’ll be more tasty bites, interesting stories, and fun adventures to read about… because I definitely did not stay out of trouble!  Just ask Sue, Nancy and George.  They [unfortunately] had to hear about all of my travel trials, as our Greek Food festival kept getting delayed!  We’ll be back to blogging about Greek Food later this week! Stay tuned!

Acropolis Photos and Link to Sue’s Delicious Greek Potato Salad Recipe

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Today’s post includes some of my favorite Acropolis photos and a link to Sue’s wonderful low sodium Greek Potato Salad.

We recently toured with some folks who mentioned that they let their stomachs choose their travel destinations.  If this is the case, Greece is surely on the top of our list!  We highly recommend making Sue’s Delicious Greek Potato Salad Recipe – or continue to scroll down and feed your wanderlust with our Acropolis photos.  We hit a rare day, with not many tourists around!

(P.S. my on-the-road, on-the-fly cropping job does not do Sue’s delicious salad justice!)

Next stop on our Greek festival is the Acropolis (Athens, Greece).

If you hit it early in the morning (or travel during low season as we often do), you might luck out and have an opportunity to wander around the Acropolis virtually tourist free.  It’s quite an experience to have [almost] the entire place to yourself, actually.

Odeon of Herodes Atticus, Athens, Greece

Sometimes referred to as “the “Herodeon”, its’ still very much a working structure. You can buy tickets to shows via Greek Festival* [but guaranteed, the joint won't be empty, as pictured above].

Parthenon - backside view (Acropolis without other tourists, can you imagine? It was simply sublime)

Old Temple of Athena / Erechtheion (Acropolis) Athens, Greece

*we have no affiliation with this site

Temple of Poseidon at Soúnio, Greece; Plaki Recipe Link & Athens Accommodation

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Temple of Poseidon at Soúnio, Greece

First Stop, the Temple of Poseidon at Soúnio [also spelled Sounion].

Soúnio is a quick day trip from central Athens.  The scenery is just simply gorgeous, and extends the whole way down the coast.  The highway route has decent signage coming out of Athens, though if you’re not watching carefully towards the entrance to the Temple of Poseidon, the turnoff to the actual temple site can be easily missed.

On the way to Soúnio, Greece

Plaki Recipe – Sue Tweeton (Please Don’t Pass the Salt)

Greek island food – who needs to say anything more.  Here’s a link to Sue’s delicious low sodium  Plaki (Greek Baked Fish) Recipe

 Athens Area Accommodation Suggestion

While in Athens, we stayed in Vouliagmeni (about 20 minutes outside central Athens) at the Westin Astir Palace.  (And, no this is not an advertising plug – I’ve “earned” Starwood Lifetime Gold status [read: via my non blogging day job].  We tend to stay at Starwood properties when we’re on vacation because we can use our frequent guest points).

The Westin is close by to the suburb of Glyfada (read: good shopping and restaurants) and has a Nobu restaurant onsite (not low sodium, don’t worry, we didn’t eat there because we wanted to eat authentic Greek food).  Coincidentally, they have a great little shuttle bus so you’re not forced to drive into downtown Athens.

We often travel in the off season — so for us, Vouliagmeni provided us with the island feel without having to deal with the added plane segments (you can see the water view and the “island” feel in the background out our hotel window.  Another added bonus about staying in Vouliagmeni  – if you are at all concerned about potential disruption from the demonstrations or uprisings, you’d never guess that any civil unrest was going on all the way out there….) We highly recommend the Westin Astir Palace.

About Vouliagmeni / Renting Cars

Vouliagmeni is an exceptional “launching point”: it’s easily accessible from the airport and is just outside the city limits — far enough away from the daily “mosh” to allow you to feel like you’re on a Greek Island (and it’s mostly out of harms reach.)  The added bonus: you can squeeze in a little more practice time driving the rental car before you have to head into town and get completely crushed. (Just kidding.  Actually, driving around in Greece* wasn’t that bad...

…but having said this, Greece it is a country where I get the full insurance on the car (i.e., we make sure we have full comprehensive converge which includes personal liability insurance, because quite often the credit cards only cover the car and our US based car insurance package doesn’t extend personal liability benefits overseas.  This is a small but important gap that can be easily missed in the rush to get out of the car rental terminal).

 

 

{Sneak Preview: Our Greek Culinary Odyssey}

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“Sing to me of the man, Muse, the man of twists and turns
driven time and again off course, once he had plundered
the hallowed heights of Troy…” – The Odyssey

We’ve got some fun news!  Over the coming month, we’ll be collaborating with some of our low sodium friends to celebrate a month-long Greek festival – delicious summertime recipes, travel stories, photos, and a really yummy Greek themed giveaway!

Just in case you want to jump start our Greek culinary adventure, consider picking up some fresh figs at your local farmer’s market.  Last summer, we created a quick-reference fig variety guide  Which Varieties? Fig-ure it out!

We also put together a really simple and elegant Fresh Figs, Mascarpone Cheese, Honey & Walnuts Recipe.

Keep posted, our next low sodium travel and food adventure is just around the corner…

Wildlife & the Alpine Tundra in Bloom at Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado

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Trail Ridge Road along Rocky Mountain National Park is simply one of the most spectacular drives.  Stop and hike up the Tundra Communities Trail (it’s one of the most amazing ecosystems I’ve ever visited).

On its surface, the alpine tundra is a biome of stark contrasts: barren landscape and rugged mountains.  Frozen winds dance across the desolate wilderness, howling with more ferocity than a pack of starving wolves.

For much of the year, the alpine tundra subjected to long and bitterly cold winters — snowfall and the snowpack can be heavy.  With an elevation starting at 11,000 feet, this is truly a land above the trees.

Then comes the early summer: the snowpack melts, revealing a layer of tiny layer of cushion plants. The harshly cold, bellowing winds persist.  To the naked and untrained eye, it would seem that nothing really lives here. But for those who linger a little longer or who get down on their hands and knees (read: stay on the trail), a rainbow of diversity exists. In early summer, the alpine’s flowers begin to bloom — if you look closely enough, you’ll see a discrete (and well masked) field of tiny, brilliant micro-flowers.

(for scale, see the fly resting on the lower left hand flower/corner)

Lichen, moss, and other small plants hug the ground, sheltering themselves from the fiercely cold winds — they have developed a high tolerance for extremely low temperatures.

Lanceleaf chiming bells

Their shallow and dense root systems drink from the melting snow. They are slow growing, making them vulnerable to uninvited (human) impact. They are entirely fragile.

It is truly one of the most magnificent achievements of vegetation adaptation…and if you’re going too fast, you could blink and miss it’s glory.

light pink (dwarf clover); Fuschia (alpine primrose) ; blue (alpine forget-me-not)

If you’re jazzed about camping, check out some of our favorite low sodium grilling/BBQ recipes and camping snacks & desserts!

 

The Case of Stolen Squash Blossoms

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Early yesterday morning we awoke to find our squash blossoms missing. The sight of it, or more accurately – the lack thereof, was enough to make us to do a double take.  We rubbed our eyes thinking this action might shake off a bad dream.  No dice, our blossoms were still missing. Our eyes darted across the landscape as we looked around for fresh evidence.  Perhaps our garden thief was cute little bunny rabbit hiding in the bushes?  Arguably, Mother Nature caring for her own is not an ideal scenario to consider – but Gaia sustaining the circle of life is always forgiven.   As we stared down at the clean dirt, still in shock, we realized the stems had been cut clean; they had been sliced with more precision than even I would have bothered to snip.  We were in utter disbelief. Someone must have really wanted our blossoms.  Our cute, but hungry, bunny rabbit perpetrator idea had just been squashed.

The humor of our situation quickly dissipated like a dark storm cloud unleashing a thunderstorm.  Gravity set in.  Someone, and not something, had stolen our squash blossoms right out from underneath our noses. Our other plants remained intact. The culprit had deliberately slithered over 20 feet through our front yard and let themselves through our primary gate to deflower our beloved plant.  They had made off like bandits.  As this second and more likely scenario began to take shape, we ruminated over our new realization.  Blankly staring down at our barren plant, we just stood there – quietly processing the adulteration that had occurred.  We were simply speechless.

The thought of someone stealing our garden produce brought out a bouquet of emotions. My temperature rose – I was mad, we had just been robbed. We had been denied our ultimate gardening reard, the harvest. I don’t know what it is like for you gardeners reading this, but for the two of us – we dream of gleaning from our garden for almost three quarters of every year.  Our garden inspiration gets renewed the day after our last harvest has just been completed.  This same dream carries us through the next growing season;  gardening is one of the few traditions that I have carried forward from my childhood.

Our little house on the prairie - my (then little) sister and I in our summer garden.

Gruesome images of historical [thievery] punishment methods (caning, severed hands, and hanging) flooded my mind.  Simultaneously, I was feeling upset and disenfranchised. I tried to think of better ways to guard our property.  Call the security guys.  Put in a better system with motion activated cameras, a water trigger spray (or how about an automated bow that shoots arrows? Just kidding Katniss).

As reality set in, a more reasonable option came to mind.  I could hang a warning sign, but seriously? The last time I had posted a sign on anything I owned was nearly twenty years ago after I bought a standard transmission car and I didn’t know how to drive a stick-shift. Worried about being distracted by tailgaters following me and stop signs on hilly roads (where I could accidentally grind my gears or stall my car), I printed a sign bearing large letters and I taped it to my rear window: “WARNING. I am learning to drive a stick-shift”.

This particular warning method proved to be quite persuasive.  For months (as I began to feel more comfortable driving my car), I’d watch people’s reaction in my rear view mirror.  A tailgater would peel-up behind me at a stop light, resting two inches away from my rear.  I’d watch their lips as they’d read my sign aloud.  I always knew when my message had been received:  almost always, their eyes would grow large and their pupils would dilate (fearing for the safety of their own car). My sign had obviously been effective because when traffic resumed, my tailgater was nowhere within sight.  Rarely did they pass – in fact, they were usually trailing thirty or forty yards behind me.   I’m not sure if they were just in disbelief?  Surprisingly, remembering this slice of life lifted my spirits.

I am now calm, but our squash blossom theft lingered with me – so I solicited the advice of a [police] friend.  Their advice to me was this:  don’t try to catch the thief yourself and put yourself into direct harm’s way – citizens’ arrests may not be your friend when someone is trespassing on your land and stealing from you.  You never know if the person will become unpredictable and how they will retaliate. Rather, strongly consider contacting the [non-emergency phone number] police with a license plate number and description of the person; discreetly take a (i.e., non-flash) photo of them in action.

Okay – that sounds like something I can do, but really? The whole situation has left me quite disenchanted.  What kind of a person steals someone else’s home grown produce anyway??

For those of you who still have squash blossoms, we had fun last year writing about how to harvest them and we made a squash blossom quesadilla.


I’ve decided to rule out buying squash blossoms at the market this week because my wound has still not yet fully healed.  So sorry, we’ll have to cook something else over the weekend and we’ll blog about it next week…

 

A Motley Crew of Cameras at Contigo

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On a peaceful Sunday morning, we found ourselves pulling up to the curb in a still-sleeping Noe Valley neighborhood.  Shopkeepers were just starting to open their doors to let the San Francisco sunlight stream in.  A mist of water freshened up the neighborhood, tiny sparkles of light shimmered against the flowers, plants and sidewalks creating mesmerizing fractal patterns.  During normal service hours, the Spanish and Catalan restaurant, Contigo, bursts with flavor and activity…but in the early hours of the morning, all was quiet on the western front. A stirring from the dark confines of the back room exposed some life – there he stood, our Rembrandt of food photography, Andrew Scrivani.  Andrew is widely known for shooting, styling, and writing about food at the New York Times.  Last weekend, the stars aligned and I booked myself into one his wayfaring workshops.

One by one, our small class of eight slowly straggled in; several professional food writers, the rest (of us) were enthusiastic food bloggers juggling day jobs (including one very stealthy, incognito food blogger who remains nameless on the web).  Collectively, we were united by a love for food.  For hours, Andrew imparted his wisdom – what elements make up a good food photo, equipment he uses, light angles create interesting compositions; throughout the morning he shared his knowledge, his incredible insight, and his life’s lessons learned.  Captivated, we soaked up every word.  Our questions kept him on his toes.  Next, we were set loose on the restaurant and the fun continued with a little one-on-one mentorship.  Together, Andrew and Contigo had set the stage; our inspiration shaped our composition and mood.

Like a shotgun that signals the start of a race, lunch was served and shutters began to fly. I navigate the jungle on a daily basis, so rather than heading directly into the race pack, I stood back, asked questions, and practiced.  As I focused my efforts on the “step-child” food subject  (a gooey, quite delicious, and somewhat awkward to shoot vegetarian curry-type of dish), I was reminded of a particularly applicable life’s lesson: the process of failure eventually leads to success.

Overall, my photography subjects and (as you can see my) outtakes were somewhat random, but the learning opportunity was immense.  To me, photography lessons provide a rare opportunity to peer into someone’s soul, to ask questions, and for a brief moment, share the consciousness of a true master artisan. No two people will ever see the world from the same vantage point – so to feel and experience life and art how a Rembrandt does…well, that enlightenment is priceless.   Most certainly for days and rare opportunities like these, it is all about the journey and not about the destination.

Inspired? You can follow Andrew’s personal blog, making SundaySauce, or (I highly recommend) catch up with him in person. He’ll be leading a half-day photography workshop at Foodista’s International Food Blogger’s Conference this August (24-26th) in Portland, Oregon.

Granville Island, Vancouver Canada

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O Canada! Our home and native land!  This week I found myself unexpectedly landing in Vancouver, Canada (my old home).  Blessed with good weather,  I was able to snap some photos of my favorite places in and around the False Creek/Granville Island area.  If you find yourself in Vancouver this summer, I strongly recommend that you consider stopping by Granville Island.  It’s one of my favorite markets to source fresh and tasty food.  Today’s post is primarily pictorial.

Taking the aquabus is one of the my favorite ways to see and get around the harbor area.

Dragon boat practice

Entering the market area…
(I worked for one of the vendors in the market many years ago, while going to university.  This trip is always very nostalgic for me)

Fresh fruit and vegetables.

[Low Sodium] Spices and Herbs

Hands down, the Stock Market is one of my favorite soup kitchens.
(While they don’t claim to be no salt added, the delicious stocks are made with minimal salt).

Bridges – one of the best places to rest your tired soul and recharge (also one of the best water view/drink spots).

There are all sorts of artisan shops, food, bars and eateries.

Waterfront living.  Well, at least we can (drool and) dream…